Okay, some caveats here. I don’t like to work from charts, so I sat down and wrote out the pattern for my whole chart. To make the chart, I used this handy dandy grid generator from knitPro 2.0: http://www.microrevolt.org/knitPro/. You can upload a picture and have it spit out a grid!

Also, this is my first attempt at writing a pattern. I hope it’s clear!

  • Size 8 needles
  • Yarn needle (big, dull point)
  • 2 colors of yarn (small ball)

I used Lily Sugar ‘n Cream cotton, but I think any worsted weight yarn would work.

Abbreviations:

MC = main color
SC = skull color
S1 = slip one stitch as if to purl
P = purl (with main color)
K = knit (with main color)
SCP = purl with skull color
SCK = knit with skull color
CO = cast on (long tail cast on makes a nice edge)
BO = bind off (for a stretchy one, *K2tog, slip back to left needle* repeat to end)

Notes: With intarsia, you make separate bobbins of yarn for each color block (even the same color in different places in a row) so that you don’t have to carry long strands of yarn across in back. In this pattern, we’ll make the following bobbins:

  • about the mass of a tangerine with SC x 2
  • about the mass of a baby carrot with MC x 4
  • about the mass of a baseball with MC

We’re slipping the first stitch of every row to make a nice edge for the side seams.

Video tips:

How to make a center-pull bobbin
How to do a long-tail cast on
How to add a color and change colors
How to K2tog (only we’re passing it back to the left needle for our bind off)
How to do side seams

Rows 1 and 3: S1, K14
Rows 2: S1, P14
Row 4: S1, P4, SCP5, P5
Row 5: S1, K3, SCK7, K4
Row 6: S1, P2, SCP9, P3
Row 7: S1, K1, SCK11, K2
Row 8: S1, P1, SCP11, P2
Row 9: S1, SCK13, K1
Row 10: S1, SCP13, P1
Row 11: S1, SCK13, K1
Row 12: S1, SCP13, P1
Row 13: S1, SCK2, K2, SCK5, K2, SCK2, K1
Row 14: S1, SCP1, P4, SCP3, P4, SCP1, P1
Row 15: S1, SCK1, K4, SCK3, K4, SCK1, K1
Row 16: S1, SCP1, P4, SCP3, P4, SCP1, P1
Row 17: S1, SCK1, K4, SCK3, K4, SCK1, K1
Row 18: S1, SCP2, P2, SCP2, P1, SCP2, P2, SCP2, P1
Row 19: S1, SCK6, K1, SCK6, K1
Row 20: S1, P1, SCP4, P3, SCP4, P2
Row 21: S1, K2, SCK3, K3, SCK3, K3
Row 22: S1, P1, SCP11, P2
Row 23: S1, K1, SCK1, K1, SCK7, K1, KCK1, K2
Row 24: S1, P1, SCP1, P9, SCP1, P2
Row 25: S1, K1, SCK1, K9, SCK1, K2
Row 26: S1, P1, SCP2, P7, SCP2, P2
Row 27: S1, K2, SCK2, K5, SCK2, K3
Row 28: S1, P3, SCP7, P4
Row 29: S1, K3, SCK7, K4
Row 30: S1, P4, SCP5, P5
All odd rows 31 to 65: S1, K14
All even rows 32 to 66: S1, P14

(Try wrapping a cell phone in it to see how long you need it to be.)

BO, leaving a long tail.

To make the necklace braid:

  1. Cut 6 strands of yarn 40” long.
  2. Bundle the strands together and tie a knot in one end.
  3. Secure the knotted end (or make your kid hold it).
  4. Separate strands into 3 pairs and braid to the other end.
  5. Knot the end.

To assemble:

  1. Fold the long rectangle in half, uncurling the edges and pressing them together.
  2. Thread the long tail onto your yarn needle and, starting at the top corner, sew the edges together on one side.
  3. When you reach the bottom, put the needle through to the inside, and weave the yarn through stitches to the other side.
  4. Sew the edges together up the other side.
  5. Sew one end of the braid to each top corner of the pouch.
  6. Weave in all ends and trim braid ends if necessary.
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